Prior to visiting San Antonio in November, my limited knowledge of the Texan city was it being the site of the Alamo (credit to Pee-wee’s Big Adventure!), home court of the San Antonio Spurs, and the birthplace of Lucchese boots. I’m pleased to report it’s a vibrant, diverse, delicious city where arts and culture take center stage and warm, welcoming locals champion every homegrown success story. And it does not feel anything like a big city of nearly 1.5 million people, especially if you’re staying in the city center or one of the nearby neighborhoods.
My homebase was Hotel Havana , where the smell of Satya sandalwood incense greeted me upon arrival. Located in Museum Reach, a quieter downtown stretch along the River Walk, Hotel Havana is ideally situated for walking to most of the key downtown attractions and a short drive away to areas like the Pearl and Southtown. The boutique-style, 27-room historic hotel (circa 1914) has a stately Mediterranean Revival exterior with a tropical twist, thanks to a collection of robust palm trees. The interior design blends Mexican and Cuban influences through antique furnishings, vintage textiles, dark woods, lush reds, and moody lighting. My cozy room on the third floor had one of the most comfortable hotel beds I’ve ever slept in.
After getting checked in, I took a short Uber ride to San Antonio Museum of Art , which stays open late (7 p.m.) on Tuesday and Friday nights, giving me ample time to stretch my legs after a day of air travel as I explored the museum’s well-curated global collection. Conveniently, dinner that night was at Tre Trattoria , set in the same old Lone Star Brewery complex that houses the museum. Perched above the river, it was still warm enough to sit outside after sundown and I was treated very kindly by the staff, who encouraged me to try Chef Jason Dady’s decadent Cacio e Pepe deviled eggs to start my lovely Italian-accented feast. Back at Hotel Havana, I popped into Ocho Lounge to sip a nightcap while soaking up the twinkly atmosphere of the glass-enclosed riverside space. A separate super-dark, sexy bar is tucked downstairs from the restaurant, also directly accessible from the hotel elevator — it was on my agenda the following night.
