This week, the Santa Barbara area saw a run of solid surf. After a long hiatus, I dusted off my board on Tuesday and headed out to Devereux Point, determined to catch a few waves and get the stoke back.
I paddled out and promptly found myself stuck in the reef, amid rocks covered in kelp tangles, and getting pounded repeatedly. After a while, still caught inside, I decided to try and head in, do the walk of shame, defeated.
But I was in trouble. I was exhausted and could hardly catch my breath. I felt faint and couldn’t get in with all the sets detonating on the rocks, me, and my board.