Until I hit my mid-twenties, the sum of my surfing experience involved watching Point Break (repeatedly) and the occasional purchase of surf-brand apparel. To me, surfing seemed like a sport celebrated by salty old men and dominated by young, edgy boys. I didn’t see a place in the lineup for girls with only mild athletic talent, like me.
I still vividly remember the day I paddled out for my first surf session. I had no idea what to expect, though I naively planned to excel immediately. It became quickly obvious that I wouldn’t be winning surf competitions anytime soon — but that didn’t matter. I wrapped up that maiden day surfing experience with tired arms and a happy soul.
I haven’t looked back since.