When Kali Kopley and Will Henry opened Pico in Los Alamos in 2016, they walked the restaurant floor, taking turns cradling their one-month-old daughter, Winslow. To help celebrate Pico’s 10th anniversary on February 28, Winslow got on stage to join her dad’s band HWY 246 for a song. That’s some serious, personal markers for a business.
But it’s also a great emblem for what Kopley and Henry wanted the place to be when it began. They haven’t swayed from the vision Henry articulated when interviewed by the Indy then: “We want to create a great culinary experience using locally produced vegetables and meats, to make as much of our ingredients in-house as possible, and to pair it with the world’s best wines.” But beyond that, there’s “the mission to make you feel at home,” as not just their website puts it, but more specifically, the page called “Ethos.”
“You don’t see a Sysco truck pull in front,” Henry proudly points out. “Everything we try to serve is local. I was carrying boxes of produce in just this morning.” He then went on to praise, in particular, Finley Farms for growing “the best carrots anywhere.” They currently show up on the Pico menu glazed and adorned with whipped feta, Figueroa Mountain Road olive oil, and fresh herbs — often from their restaurant’s own garden, which also turns out to be one of the loveliest spots to dine, too. It also makes for a great site for a soiree, like the one celebrating the anniversary. Especially when they were pouring Lumen’s Hey Ginger pet-nat, which sounds a bit wacky but is a refreshing delight on a warm late summer afternoon.
