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The Allure of Old Wines

Wine Shepherd’s ‘Unicorn Flights’ and opening Presqu’ile’s library

The Allure of Old Wines
Kali Kopley from The Wine Shepherd

The modern wine lover is a rather educated fellow — she knows grape varieties and regions well, is familiar with individual estates and vintners, and may even prefer a specific vineyard block or winemaking technique. But with all that intel, what’s the next educational frontier? Where does he go now to further his oenological intrigue?

To me, the answer is age, as in drinking older bottles of wine. Though Americans reportedly consume more than 90 percent of wine within 24 hours of its purchase, those who have patience to sit on a bottle for five, 10, or even 20-plus years will find much to enjoy.

Not only do older bottles offer exotic, occasionally mystical aromas and flavors that young wines can only dream of — think shaved truffles and exotic mushrooms, gamy charcuterie and funky cheese — but these are one of humankind’s only opportunities to truly taste the past. There is, of course, a bit of gambling involved, for not all wines are built to withstand this test of time. But those that do survive reveal far more about the staying power of a vineyard or prowess of a winemaker than the latest release does.