California’s current wine trend is exploring bottlings made from the world’s most obscure varieties. Their origins range from the Atlantic-influenced appellations of the western Loire Valley all the way up to the sub-alpine regions of the Jura Mountains. A lot of these varieties are actually harder to find in their own country of origin — good luck stumbling upon a straight counoise in a French wine shop.
Santa Barbara County’s producers are some of the leaders in this movement, and their wines are easily among the state’s best finds. Yes, the noble grapes will always be there, but check out these fresh, reemerging varieties.
Lieu Dit Bien Nacido Vineyard Melon 2014: Also known as the grape used in France’s Muscadet, this stunner is refreshingly crisp, with papaya and just under-ripe apricot. Sublime with oysters. $20