Will Henry co-owns Pico Restaurant at the Los Alamos General Store and Lumen Wines. His father, Warner Henry, who died in August, founded the Henry Wine Group, which represented family-owned wine brands for decades.
In 1990, I flew to Portugal with my father, Warner Henry, to visit port producers on the Douro River. As was customary for him, he had brought a number of books about Portuguese wine, including the chapter on Portugal from The World Atlas of Wine, which he considered to be his bible.
Our first night in Porto was to be spent at a famous old restaurant in the city center, and my father was excited to explore the wines of this little-known corner of the wine world. He had been talking all day about trying to find an old vintage Moscatel de Setúbal, a lightly fortified sweet muscat dessert wine that apparently had a tremendous ability to age with grace.
